Saturday, May 16, 2015

Galway - City of Tribes

From its beginnings as the small fishing village Claddagh (home of the Claddagh ring) on the banks of the River Corrib, Galway grew into importance when the Anglo-Normans captured territory from the local O'Flaherty's in 1232. It was a walled city, and in the late 14th century, power was transferred to 14 merchant families or 'tribes', giving the city its nickname. Galway was a major trade power, with extensive trade with Spain and Portugal. However, its loyalty to the Crown was its downfall when Cromwell's forces took it in 1651.

Above, a copy of a map showing the city in the mid 1600’s - it was well fortified from the water side but vulnerable from the land. The Irish were forced to live outside its walls.

The River Corrib, Europe's shortest river at 6 km, divides a compact city center.

Our choice of B&B's continue to serve us well. This one was located about a 10 minute walk from the main square and the start of the pedestrianized area of the old city. We have found the proprietors of the B&B's to have universally great recommendations on what to see, where to eat and where to find good music. It's also been a delightful way to meet and talk with natives.

Eyre Square, above and below, is the city's central public square. The banners represent each of Galway's fourteen tribes or families. We started our historical walking tour here with a guide full of great stories and interesting historical details as we walked through the city.

 

Lynch's Castle, above, is considered the finest town castle in Ireland. It was built in the 14th century, though much of what is seen today dates from around 1600.

 

The Collegiate Church of St. Nicholas dates back to 1320 and is Ireland's largest medieval parish church still in use. The four-sided clock tower has only 3 clocks, with the side facing out of the city blank; supposedly given rise to the saying: 'They wouldn't give them the time of day'. Below is a stone angel from inside the church whose face and hands were chopped off when Cromwell's forces used the church to stable their horses.

Another story told by our guide is that Charlotte Bronte is thought to have visited this church. Below is a plaque to Jane Eyre, and it is thought that Charlotte might have used this as inspiration for her title character.

Examples from its medieval history, like the wedding stone (below) located above a doorway dating from 1615, are found throughout the city.

 

The Spanish Arch, part of the city's medieval walls, was designed to serve as a passageway through which goods were unloaded from ships from Spain.

 

Lively street life in the largely pedestrian centre city - with a large student population with the average age below 25. Below a musician playing the Irish harp sits between Oscar Wilde and Edward Wilde, an Estonian playwright. There was no connection between these two but it was done to celebrate the addition of Estonia to the European Union.

 

Above, a view from the Harbour across Galway Bay to the Burren; below a view across the River Corrib to Claddaugh, now part of the city.

 

It was a beautiful day and folks were out enjoying the sun; below an upper part of the river with a salmon weir. Brown salmon are carefully protected as their stocks have been severely depleted.

 

Galway Cathedral, dedicated in 1965, was part of the legacy left by Bishop Brown, who served for 40 years. He was not known as a warm and caring pastor, reading out in public the names of families behind on their tithes for the building fund. Our guide's father-in-law, a contractor, was denied permission by the bishop to attend an Anglican service where they were to dedicate a school he had built for the Anglicans.

 

 

 

 

No comments:

Post a Comment